Istanbul and Cappadocia. One a buzzing multicultural city, the other hard to pinpoint on a map but, known for its iconic moon like landscapes. Each amazing in their own right and also great combined into a perfect week’s holiday.
My trip started in Istanbul, which is easily one of my favourite cities in the world. The Bosphorus Strait separates Asia from Europe within the city itself, but this is not a division, it is where East meets West and there are few places on earth where so many cultural contrasts live in such unison.
Istanbul is a city for the senses and one to get lost in, particularly in the narrow back streets of the gorgeously condensed Sultanahmet, the city’s old historic quarter. As you wander, you will encounter remnants of its rich history at every corner - from the towering minarets of the Blue Mosque to the iconic Hagia Sophia, a former church that was turned into a mosque and is a symbol of Istanbul’s Byzantine and Ottoman past. The city has witnessed the rise and fall of many empires that fought to seize its beauty.
What makes Istanbul truly special is its ability to embrace both its past and its future with open arms. Old world and new world, cutting-edge design and the faded, ramshackle relics of the past. This is evident as you stroll through the trendy neighbourhoods of Beyoglu and Karaköy, where historic buildings have been transformed into hip cafés, galleries and boutiques. The latter is where my hotel was situated, the stunning Peninsula. This waterfront property has some of the best views and is a stone’s throw from everything you want to see and do in the city. With the added bonus that you can swim all year round in the infinity pool whilst watching ships in the Bosphorus glide by as they ferry locals and tourists - a great way to get a different perspective of the city.
Another way to see the city differently is to take to the rooftops of the Grand Bazaar in a James Bond style (it was used in a scene from Skyfall). From this vantage point you see a rolling landscape of minarets and domes of the many mosques that sprawl over the seven hills of the city. A unique and very special experience.
I also explored the atmospheric subterranean world of the Basilica Cisterns, located beneath the bustling streets of the city. Built during the reign of Emperor Justinian in the 6th Century, these vast underground chambers were used to store and supply water to the city during Byzantine times and consist of stunning columns adorned with intricate carvings and designs.
And of course, no trip to Istanbul is complete without a visit to its legendary bazaars. Losing yourself in the labyrinthine lanes, where you can haggle for everything from dates and textiles to jewellery and ceramics, whilst the air is filled with the aroma of exotic spices and fragrant herbs.
After three days in Istanbul, I took a 90-minute flight east to Kayseri, about an hour’s drive from Cappadocia, a now iconic region in Central Anatolia, where the lava and ashes from ancient volcanic eruptions, eroded by rain, wind and ice over millions of years have formed into unique conical rock formations called “fairy chimneys”.
The same soft rock that was slowly shaped by nature was also worked by human hands to form thousands of cave dwellings and even entire underground cities, where you can find carved-out corridors and rooms once used as stables, kitchens, places of worship and wine-making facilities. Cappadocia’s long history as a centre for Christianity is on splendid display in the Göreme Open-Air Museum, a stunning complex of rock-cut monasteries and churches, mostly dating from the 10th to 12th centuries and many adorned with vivid frescoes.
During my time in Cappadocia, I stayed at the very serene and beautiful Argos in Cappadocia overlooking the stunning Pigeon Valley. This once former monastery has rooms and suites set over a number of buildings that spill down a hillside just below the sleepy village of Uçhisar, an ancient town that has played host to various civilisations across the centuries. Steps lead up, stairs go down, bridges arc across roads, rooftops turn into terraces and terraces lead to tunnels. It’s very cool stuff, and the sort of architecture that happens over time, as a reaction to the landscape.
High winds in the mornings prevented me taking to the sky in a balloon flight - a hotelier told me cancellations occur about 10 percent of the time. But honestly, that didn’t bother me as I enjoyed hiking in Pigeon Valley below my hotel and I still got to see the show of balloons as I departed on my final morning.
From Cappadocia you can either head home via Istanbul or fly direct to Izmir and discover the ancient ruins of Ephesus before heading to a resort along the coast.
Whenever you think of Turkey, it is easy to get swept away by the beauty of its beaches and some fabulous resorts like D-Maris Bay or cool Macakezi. But the country has so much more to offer. It is easy to combine history and adventure with relaxing by Turkey’s turquoise seas. If you would like to discover the delights of Turkey, please do get in touch.