I couldn’t remember the last time I walked on a beach where the sand really did squeak under my feet. But that was an everyday occurrence during my blissful week on the tropical paradise of Benguerra Island. The second largest island of the five that form Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago, Benguerra is an untouched landscape of pristine shores, azure seas and swaying palms, where roads are merely tracks in the sand.
Benguerra feels worlds away from anywhere, but is only 14km from the Airport at Vilanculos and getting there is half the fun with a zippy seven-minute helicopter flight, flying so low I could spot turtles in the ocean below.
Life moves at a gentle barefoot pace on Benguerra Island. Days can be spent relaxing outside your private villa, horse riding, heading out to hike the sand dunes on nearby Bazaruto Island followed by a private picnic set up on a quiet stretch of beach, or visiting one of the small isles such as Pansy Island - named after the sea-urchin skeletons with distinctive pansy-shaped imprints found there.
Beaches on Benguerra really do rival those anywhere in the world, including the Maldives. But for me, they have so much more character and a real sense of place thanks to the wonderful locals who inhabit the island. There are two small villages and you will undoubtedly wake to the sound of fishermen as they set off at dawn and your beach walk in the milky early-morning light will be punctuated by children shouting hello on their way to school.
As Benguerra is part of a well-protected National Park the colourful coral reefs team with marine life, whales can be seen in season and the waters are also home to the rare African Dugong, a relative of the Manatee. For diving buffs, you really will not be sharing the underwater marine life with many others.
I stayed at all three of the lodges on Benguerra Island from the convivial Azura where guests mingle in the bar and the sun sets to the more intimate &Beyond Benguerra Lodge outfitted with the most glamorous thatched-roof cabanas and plunge pools sitting steps away from the sea. But the one lodge that totally blew me away was Kisawa Sanctuary. This blissful hideaway set amidst pristine dunes on the southern tip of Benguerra Island may also blow the budget but, for a special occasion or if you want a totally personalised stay and lots of time with those you are travelling with, then this place is for you.
The eight amazingly beautiful and secluded villas are set on almost 750 acres and the minimum plot size for each is over an acre. Your villa comes with indoor / outdoor space, private pool and even your own bit of beach.
You have your own smiley team to look after you - my wonderful host Ruth ensured I got the most out of my stay!
And when you are bored with your own company, head out in your electric Mini Moke (all villas come with one) to Baracca Beach Bar for sunset and the meanest cocktails or one of the other two restaurants for dinner. But if you cannot be bothered moving, ask for the pizza truk!
If you are looking for a standalone beach holiday and love the idea of being a little more remote and not in a big resort, especially if you love diving, then you really should consider Benguerra Island. It is also perfect after a South African safari too as there is a daily direct flight from Nelspruit in the Greater Kruger to Vilanculos. Please do get in touch if you would like to know more about each of the lodges on Benguerra island and which one may suit you.