There are some travel experiences that you know will be special before you even set off. Gorilla trekking is one of them. But nothing quite prepares you for the moment when you come face-to-face with your first gorilla, just metres away going about its everyday life totally oblivious to you.
There is a magical aura that surrounds the mountain gorilla, largely because there are so few of them (just over a 1,000 at the last count) and seeing them in their natural habitat is a rare privilege. Uganda is home to half of the world’s mountain gorilla population with Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, where we went, being one of the best places to encounter them.
Gorilla Forest Lodge
Our base in Bwindi was Gorilla Forest Lodge, tucked away inside the National Park.
Surrounded by ancient forest, with the mist often swirling around the treetops, the lodge feels wonderfully connected to its surroundings. The ten suites combine luxury with Ugandan craftsmanship and natural materials, from banana fibre and papyrus to barkcloth, wood and handmade pieces by local artisans. I loved the way the design reflected the location and the culture around it.
And beyond the lodge lay the forest we had come to explore.
Into the forest
We had booked two treks over consecutive days. Our first morning began with a briefing and then we were allocated the gorilla family we were going to trek, the Mubare family. We had put in a request for our first trek to be something adventurous and ambitious. We certainly got that.
Bwindi is a remarkable place to hike, with enormous mahogany trees, dense vegetation and the sound of monkeys squealing high in the canopy. We climbed over roots, negotiated muddy slopes and followed narrow paths deeper into the forest. Our trackers were already ahead, following signs of where the gorillas had been moving, but there was no knowing exactly how long it would take to find them.
We walked for around two and a half hours led by our ranger, Joy, before finding the family. At times it was demanding, but the forest was so beautiful that the walking became part of the adventure.
One thing I’d really recommend is hiring a porter. They carry your backpack and help you negotiate the muddy slopes and steeper climbs, giving you a hand whenever you need it. It makes a real difference, particularly on more challenging sections and means you can concentrate on enjoying the experience rather than worrying about your footing or your bags. It also provides valuable income directly to the local community and, at only $20 for the day, it’s the best small investment you can make.
Face-to-face with a silverback
Our first sighting was a magnificent silverback.
He was enormous, with broad shoulders and a commanding presence, the undisputed alpha male of the family. Completely at ease with us nearby, he simply carried on with his day. We were close enough to hear him eating and later he gave us a huge yawn.
But my favourite moment was watching him lying on his back, his arms tucked behind his head, looking so relaxed that he could almost have been lounging on a sofa. It was such an unexpectedly familiar sight.
There were females and youngsters in the family too, and watching them interact was fascinating. We share around 98.4% of our DNA with gorillas and seeing their expressions and everyday behaviours at such close quarters brings that connection home in a way no documentary quite can.
Why I would do two treks
Where our first trek had been a longer hike followed by wonderfully relaxed moments with the silverback, the next day the second hike was shorter before we discovered a family of 17 gorillas that were full of movement and playful energy. Again, there was a magnificent silverback, but the youngsters really stole the show. An adorable, woolly-haired juvenile was bounding around, beating his tiny chest and getting up to mischief. Watching him alongside the adults was utterly captivating.
Both treks were memorable for different reasons and I’m so glad we booked two.
You get to spend just one hour with a gorilla family and it goes incredibly quickly. A second trek gives you the chance to see another family and experience different behaviours. It also means you can relax a little, put the camera down and enjoy the moment, without feeling you have to capture everything in your one opportunity.
A journey worth taking
Gorilla trekking is an adventure and the terrain can be challenging. But with an experienced ranger, the support of a porter and a little determination, it is an experience that can be accessible to many more people than they might imagine.
For me, it was about much more than seeing an endangered animal. It was the forest, the anticipation, the individual personalities of the gorillas and the chance to observe them in their natural habitat.
You keep your distance, but the gorillas are not aware of any distance rules and often come right up to you. Throughout both treks, I never once felt scared. The rangers and trackers know the forest and the gorilla families exceptionally well and their experience is incredibly reassuring.
For a brief hour you are allowed into the world of the gorilla. It’s surreal, humbling and something I will never forget.
If seeing mountain gorillas with your own eyes is on your bucket list, please do get in touch and let’s ensure it’s one lifetime experience you get ticked off.